Forespar telescopic whisker pole review

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Poling out the jib is a great way to efficiently use the sails you already have on your yacht. This is a great set up for downwind sailing and much easier than a spinnaker. What you need is a whisker pole. The basic difference between a whisker pole and a spinnaker pole is that the whisker pole can only work in compression. For poling out sails however a whisker pole is all you need as it is always trying to be compressed.

Forespar make a range of aluminium whisker poles. I chose a 2” dia. version in three parts with a total extended length of 200” (5 m) and a collapsed length of 80” (2 m) (model no: ADJ-15-DL) On each end is a self latching spring fitting. Apparently it is strong enough for a 28 foot boat to use it on the working jib in med to heavy airs.

When not in use it lives clamped to the stanchions. It is fairly unobtrusive here but rather exposed to the weather. The pole is quite light which is helpful when using or stowing. The end fittings are made of a type of plastic so they do not damage the boat at all. The end fittings have spectra lines to open the jaws and to attach topping lifts if required. It cost 350€.

The twist mechanism is simple but it is not very reliable. Often the pole will collapse during use. I complained to Forespar who eventually sent me a new pole. Sadly that was barely better than the original one. The system works by having a rubber wheel with a slightly offset axel so that when you twist the pole, it acts like a cam and locks the pole. Eventually I was forced to drill a hole in the extended pole and fit a self tapping screw to stop the pole collapsing.

I had to mark the poles at their maximum extension so I would not pull the poles too far apart. Unbelievably, the only thing stopping the poles coming apart is a piece of dyno tape stuck onto the inside of the pole. Not surprisingly, these don’t stay in place long.

The pole is not very strong and it can bend alarmingly. I haven’t snapped it in half yet but if I was not careful I could. It’s a shame because I would like to leave it up poling out the jib but instead I have to drop the jib and use the staysail instead or risk breaking the pole even though it’s not very windy. My jib is only 150 sq feet and my boat just 24 feet long but even still, this pole is not up to it.

Even collapsing the pole is difficult. The inner pole collapses easily as there is a small hole to let air escape (if not it would be like a giant bicycle pump with your finger over one end!) but the smallest dia. pole is hard to collapse as there is no way for the air to escape except around the rubber wheel inside the pole which is too snug a fit.

Another annoying fault is that the jaw on the widest end of the pole cannot be opened if the inner pole is fully inserted. This never used to happen on the old pole so I assume it has something to do the new plastic jaws but in any case I find this a poor oversight.

I removed one end while investigating why the jaw wouldn’t open and discovered that the fitting was much too small in the tube and was made wider with masking tape! This is very poor, because in time the fitting will move, the three screw slots will enlarge and eventually there will be play in the jaws. It’s just poor engineering and there’s no excuse for it.

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I wrote to Forespar who assured me that this was a perfectly fine way to build a spar, common engineering practice, I was told. Honestly, who do they think they are fooling? Sound engineering practice would have been to make the end fit the pole snugly like it does at the other end of the pole. Failing that, then a wrap of some kind of hard plastic that covered all of the jaw end that fits inside the pole would have been ok. But no, Forespar use a cheap and ordinary white masking tape which can compress and they only wrapped a part of the end fitting.

Since they managed to make one end fit well, I can only assume that this is either a design fault or bad manufacturing. If the pole worked well without collapsing I would forgive all these faults but it just doesn’t work well enough to be trusted and it’s not man enough even for my small jib.

Conclusion: Nice idea, small when collapsed but annoying to use, hard to collapse when stowing but easy to collapse when using it to pole out a sail. Not strong enough for a 24 foot boat despite the claims and poorly engineered with masking tape. Thin piece of dyno tape is all that stops the poles coming apart. All in all a big disappointment.

Oil changing made easy (well easier)

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Yanmar might make a great engine but they certainly don’t make it easy to change the oil! The oil filter is inaccessible and placed horizontally on the engine block. If that wasn’t bad enough, the don’t even give you a sump drain nut anymore. This is progress for you!

After the first time I changed the oil on my 3YM20 I vowed to find a better and less messy way to do it.

To get the old oil out of the engine you must use the dip stick shaft. Many companies make oil pumps with a small tube that can be fed down the shaft but their diameter is tiny and even with hot oil, the process is slow, messy and inefficient. So here’s a trick I learned from a mechanic, for which I will always be grateful. It’s obvious really, but don’t try and stick a pipe down the shaft but rather use the shaft as a tube but simply putting a larger diameter pipe OVER the dip stick shaft! I know, I told you it was obvious. However before you can do this you’ll have to cover the small and practically invisible hole at the top of the shaft or it won’t suck.

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This helps enormously but if you really want to make it easy then you need to remove the banjo bolt that holds the dip stick shaft in place and have it drilled and tapped to take a brass fitting. To this you can then attach a pump which can be attached in a convenient place on the motor. Of course most other marine engine manufacturers offer this as standard. I cannot imagine why Yanmar do not.

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This pic shows the remote oil filter placed conveniently under the front of the engine and the oil sump pump top left.

That covers getting oil out of the engine but what about the filter? It is possible to buy a remote filter kit which allows you to not only place the filter somewhere more convenient but it also allows you to place the filter vertically so oil doesn’t pour out when you unscrew it. Kits are available from ASAP Supplies who are a very knowledgeable (UK) company and prices start at about 100€ depending on what length of pipes you choose.

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If you don’t want to go to the hassle of fitting a remote filter, there is a trick to stop you spilling quite so much oil when you unscrew the filter. Normally, we are told, one should run the engine to warm and thin the oil before changing, this makes it much easier to remove. However if you do this, the oil filter will be full , so when you unscrew it, you will spill a lot of oil all over the engine and make a terrible mess. The Yanmar filter is fitted absolutely flush to the block so there’s nothing you can do to stop this. The trick is to run the engine to warm the oil but then wait an hour. The oil will still be runny but the filter will have drained the majority of it’s contents back into the sump so that only a bit of oil will spill out. It’s also much easier to remove a filter that isn’t scolding hot!

I hope that these few simple ideas will make changing the oil on you marine engine, if not a pleasure, at least not such a chore.

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Spot the oil filter!

Coppercoat 10 year Antifouling

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Lovely golden colour of Coppercoat when first applied and before launching.

One of the biggest problems facing boaters is that of marine growth. Every year the boat has to come out of the water and be repainted. It is annoying and costly. If you only have a couple of weeks holiday a year, the last thing you want to do is spend days on the hard working on your boat. These days there are fewer and fewer yards that even allow you to work on your own boat. This means that the annual painting of your boat’s bottom is expensive. It’s not only the cost either. Even with modern ablative paints designed to erode throughout the season, layers build up over the years to create a thick and often uneven coating that slows you down. It’s a poor system that leaves the hapless boater at the mercy of boatyards the world over.

Worse still is that since the banning of Tin, antifouling paints seem much less effective than they were but don’t despair, help is at hand in the form of a product called Coppercoat. It has been available in Europe for nearly 20 years and has now available in the States. When I bought Doolittle I had it applied by Pacific Seacraft. They were sceptical but I insisted. ‘If it’s so good, why isn’t everyone using it?’ they asked. There are many reasons but I suspect the main one is because no boat yard in it’s right mind would recommend this product to their customers because it’s a coating that doesn’t need to be applied every year. Coppercoat claim a ten year life span but in fact there are many boats out there with their Coppercoat still working perfectly after more than 15 years. Over 30,000 boats in 40 countries have now had Coppercoat applied.

From an environmental point of view, Coppercoat is a no brainer. Basically, Coppercoat is a water based, solvent free epoxy coating to which pure copper powder is added. As it slowly erodes, new particles of copper are constantly exposed making it very effective against all marine growth. Compared to normal paint systems it does a lot less harm. The finish is very smooth and just gets smoother every year. Coppercoat has been applied to some very big motorboats who have reported much better fuel efficiency and even an increase in top speed. The advantages over conventional paints are many.

As an antifouling coating Coppercoat simply works. Very little manages to get a foot hold on the surface, partly because it’s so smooth, but also because fresh copper is being exposed the whole time. When the copper is exposed to sea water it causes the formation of Cuprous Oxide which is a very effective anti-fouling agent. Eventually this becomes Cupric Hydrochloride which is washed away by the movement of the boat and the whole process begins again. Coppercoat works better than any modern antifouling I have seen. If you are constantly using your boat the hull will stay perfectly clean. If you have left it afloat for the winter, you may find a coating of slime but it is easily wiped off.

Obviously Coppercoat costs more than normal paint but when you consider that you only have to apply it once it soon pays for itself after just a couple of years. It costs about £300 for a 25 foot boat and about £450 for a 35 foot boat. Perhaps the biggest drawback is that Coppercoat cannot be applied over the top of old antifouling paints which means before you can use it, the old coatings must be removed. This does add to the cost but even allowing for this, it’s still excellent value. The other problem with Coppercoat is that it only comes in one colour. Green. If you can live with this then I would highly recommend it. Coppercoat can be applied to any boat although a barrier primer may first be needed. It is hard wearing and the boat can be hauled for the winter with no harm.

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After 5 years and a full winter afloat and not moving, bottom is coated with a slime only.

You do not have to be an expert to apply Coppercoat as it is very simple to use. About 5 coats are applied, rolled on in just one day. The epoxy comes in half litre packs which are mixed together and then the copper powder is added so you cannot get the mix wrong. The product comes with a DVD which shows how to apply it. When new it is a bright copper colour which soon changes to a lovely green after a while. It’s water based so it’s easy to clean up the pots and rollers afterwards, there is no waste or mess to deal with.

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A close up of the slime. It was very easily removed.

It’s been five years since Doolittle was first launched and the Coppercoat is still perfect. I was a little disappointed at first as there was some growth on the hull. Coppercoat said I should sand the finish lightly with fine sandpaper to expose some copper but I didn’t want to wear down my coating so I didn’t bother. Eventually, once the coating started to wear, more and more copper was exposed and now there is practically no growth at all, despite the boat hardly moving for the whole winter. There were about 10 barnacles stuck to the hull but they couldn’t get a proper grip in the surface and could be knocked off with ease.

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A small collection of barnacles but even these just push off with a finger.

Would I recommend Coppercoat for your boat? Yes I would. It’s just so sensible. I am no longer at the mercy of boatyards and I don’t even have to haul my boat if I don’t feel like it. I no longer have to buy poor performing paints that leach toxins into the environment, or spend time masking up the waterline. Having a clean and smooth bottom means that when motoring, I am polluting less and saving money on diesel. Having a clean bottom also means that I can sail faster and point higher. It’s a very tough finish as well which can take abuse. I can’t think of one reason why not to apply it. If you care about your pocket, your valuable time and the environment, then Coppercoat is the antifouling for you.

Leica M9 emergency battery option

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What was fabulous about the film M Leicas was that they could work even if they had no batteries. You might lose the light meter but you could still take pictures. The biggest problem with digital cameras is that will only work with a battery. If your battery is flat, there is nothing you can do.

Because of this fact, many people carry a spare battery with them only it’s a pain, always remembering to take it with you and knowing where to put it. It could easily get lost or damaged. The solution, at least for the Leica M9 is actually quite simple.

The optional grip that replaces the bottom plate on the M9 could easily be modified to take a slightly smaller battery. This means that you will always have another battery (albeit with reduced capacity) so you never need to miss that shot.

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Lets look a bit closer at the logistics. The outer diameter of the grip is 23mm. Assuming that the thickness of the metal and rubber is no more than 2mm allows an internal diameter of about 19mm. By reducing the M9 battery in width it is possible to make it fit inside the grip handle.

The battery only needs to be reduced in width, the grip is easily tall enough to take a battery the same height. The top of the grip handle could have a screwed thread to gain access to the emergency battery within. A spring (not unlike the one under the battery in the camera body) would push the battery out when the cap is removed.

The emergency battery would still fit and lock in the camera body with no modification necessary to the camera. The one slight issue is the battery charger. The emergency battery would still fit in and charge but would not lock in place. This could be solved by using a plastic frame which would hold the battery in the charger, both easy and cheap to make.

I calculate that the emergency battery would have about 50% of the capacity of the original giving a further 150 or so shots. In other words, a very useful ‘second chance’.

If you didn’t need (or want) to carry an emergency battery in the grip, the empty space could be used for any number of items. Perhaps a small sensor cleaning kit or simply a lens cloth. Even a small survival kit could be carried within. The possibilities are endless!

The only issues I can see is a slight increase in weight. The original battery weighs about 50 grams so I estimate the emergency battery would weigh about 25 grams. Not much extra weight really. The battery charger may have to be modified for the reduced capacity of the emergency battery but maybe not. In any case it would be a simple enough feat for Leica.

I for one would welcome an emergency battery that I could carry at all times in the camera grip. Please comment and if there is enough interest maybe Leica could be persuaded to create it. I did write to them about it and although they were very impressed with the idea are simply too busy to deal with it. Maybe this is something a third party could manufacture. If someone does take up this idea please remember where you saw it first and share your good fortune. We are a non profit making company, please help us to change our status!

Leica M9 for Lefties

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This idea came from watching my left handed friend use my M9. He placed the whole camera over his face as if the camera was an SLR. This is not the reason though, it was simply because he was left handed! Because he is a pro photographer, he had no trouble using the camera but you could see that it wasn’t right. That got me thinking.

Creative people are often left handed so I began to wonder how many left handed photographers are there out there who own a Leica M camera? Must be quite a few. What they need is their own M especially for them.

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Here it is. I give you the M9L (for Left handed). How mad does that look? Maybe it looks perfectly normal if you’re left handed, I really can’t say, being right handed and very happy with the M9 as it is.

If you are left handed, please comment on this idea. I’d love to know what you think. It must be terrible living in a world that’s all arse about face. If enough of you like the idea, then maybe Leica will make the M9L.

Leica M9 reconsidered

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It was a post card that I received from an elderly sailing friend that set me thinking about an M9 re-design. He had recently bought a new GPS to replace his trusty old one but was annoyed that it just did far too much. All he wanted was a few basics like the Longitude and Latitude. He couldn’t have cared less for maps and cross track error. His missive said that he was getting used to the GPS although it had far too many USELESS (in caps) functions.

For a long time now I have believed that we are being offered far too much of everything and it’s getting completely out of hand, almost as if manufacturers of electronic goods are showing off by installing so many functions that the instruction manual weighs more than the product! None of these extra functions make us any happier, nor is the end result any better. At best we are blindly trusting electronics to run our lives, at worst, we are losing any skill we once had as these ‘indispensible’ features do everything for us.

My last camera is a case in point. It was a Leica Digilux 2 and it was good. It took better pictures than me and for 95% of the time it was spot on. The bottom line is that I got lazy and my photos lost that certain ‘je ne c’est quoi’ so when the M9 was launched I thought, ‘great, here’s a chance to get back to basics’ but in fact even the M9 does far more than I will ever require from it.

So of course I played with the menu, considered the choices and set the camera up as I wanted. It even has profiles so you can easily get back to a previous setting that you liked. What happens in practice is that you forget to put the profile back to the one you normally use or the profile you think you are using has changed because you changed something somewhere else. Many times I took a picture only to realise I had only a black and white JPG and not a DNG. Having all these choices does not make me a better photographer, nor do I take better pictures and I’m certainly not faster either.

I tried an experiment with the M9. I imagined it was my beloved old M3 and all I had to play with was the shutter speed, lens aperture and composition. It was a revelation. I found that I didn’t even need the light meter after a while, the human eye being surprisingly good with practice. My pictures suddenly looked better to me. It might only have been because they were taken by me and not by an electronic brain. There might have been something subconscious in my subject that no computer could see. A sixth sense which made me stop down a little more than the camera might have done, but which gave a completely different result.

Take the M9, a simply awesome camera but still way too complicated and I believe that it’s too far from Leica’s philosophy to be quite right. No doubt Leica themselves thought that no one would cough up £5000 for a body that didn’t try to justify it’s high price with impressive electronics. But I beg to differ. Having used the M9 for half a year I would be quite happy if it didn’t have any of the features and I don’t think I will be alone here.

For decades about the most technical advancement any M user had was a light meter. We had no choice about ISO, you put a film in and lived with it until it was used. None of these restrictions stopped people taking amazing pictures with their M cameras. So I’m going to suggest something that will surprise many but may well be applauded by others. See what you think, and please comment so we can get a consensus.

We need the M9P (P for pure) and do away with ALL the superfluous nonsense. No screen, no menu, no choice. Not only will this M9P be simpler and less likely to go wrong (surely reliability is a core Leica philosophy), the battery will last longer and you’ll spend more time taking pictures than looking at a menu on a screen. You keep the light meter, the Aperture priority option and AE lock. ISO would be chosen by rotating a knob in the middle of the back (exactly where the ISO reminder dial was on film M’s). Exposure compensation can be easily added to the ISO knob. (see pic below). There would be no other controls.

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Two dials: Outer dial adjusts exposure compensation, inner dial for ISO adjust. The advantage over the standard M9 is that this important information is always visible at a glance without having to press any buttons! Adjustments can be made without even looking.

I’d go even further than this too. I’d be happy to see a lever for cocking the shutter and lose the continuous shooting option. The motor that cocks the M9 shutter isn’t very quiet and it’s a shame that it’s not nearly as discreet as film Ms with their almost silent silky ‘click’. Having a wind on lever would not only add a mechanical touch to the camera and make it much quieter and more reliable, while using still less power but would also be able to act as a small power generator every time the shutter was cocked. In an emergency, the wind on lever could be disengaged from the shutter and operated enough times to charge the camera and allow it to carry on taking pictures even when the battery has run down.

Think about it for a moment, it makes a lot of sense. Let’s work our way through the menu and you’ll see that there is a logical solution to not having a screen. I suggest a camera that would work with default settings that could be user changed when the camera is connected to the PC.

Lens Detection: This could be set on Auto and you can simply use coded lenses. Lenses can be coded in minutes using only a felt tip pen so there’s no argument for not doing this. The camera could have a default setting so if it didn’t recognise the lens it would go automatically to a setting that would work for all lenses. If you only use one lens you could preset the camera for that lens by using the ‘Camera control’ software that Leica would supply with the M9P.

Save user profile: You won’t need this option as you have no settings to prefer over others.

Advance: This will be set to Standard so that you can have AE mode when the shutter dial is set to ‘A’.

Self Timer: Set for 10 seconds as it was on old M cameras.

Auto Iso Set up: Here’s another one you won’t need. If you want more sensitivity, simply turn the ISO dial at the back of the camera.

Sharpening: M9P doesn’t take JPGs. If you want that, make one in Lightroom afterwards.

Colour Saturation: As above.

Contrast: As above.

Bracketing set up: No need for this either. Want to bracket, rotate the speed dial or aperture ring!

Exposure compensation set up: Simple, by using the knob on the back of the camera.

Monitor Brightness: What monitor?

Histogram: What histogram? Film Leicas never had these.

Folder management: I can’t see the point in this. If you wanted to name the folder you could do it when the M9P was connected to the PC.

Auto Review: Nothing to review!

Auto Power Off: Could be set to 5 minutes or user set via computer.

Flash Sync: M photography has never been about using fake light. Personally I couldn’t care less about any flash functions and if it wasn’t for the need for somewhere to put viewfinders etc I’d remove the hotshoe altogether. In any case, this could be user set when camera is branched to the PC.

Auto Slow Sync: As above.

Colour management: Can be user set via computer.

DNG Set Up: Set on uncompressed. After all if you have the best camera in the world, why would you risk lowering the quality? In any case, user set when connected to PC.

Reset: Nothing to reset!

Sensor Cleaning: This could be simply achieved by holding down the shutter release, then turning the on/off switch to Self Timer. (or whatever).

Date: Set by PC connection. Do you really need to see the date?

Time: As above.

Acoustic signal: No loss and no need for it either.

Language: No menu, no language. A truly International camera, any one can use it.

USB Connection: Default: PTP but can be user set to mass storage by PC connection.

Format SD Card: I see no reason why you couldn’t only do this when the camera is connected to the PC. Most Pros would have plenty of spare cards which can all be formatted before they go out.

Firmware: This doesn’t need to be in the camera menu. It could easily be viewed or changed via the PC connection.

That is the M9 menu. As you can see there is no reason why the M9P couldn’t be set up to work perfectly well with some default settings which can all be changed by connecting the camera to the PC. The simple fact is that an M9 is completely useless without a PC anyway. With digital photography you need a computer to go with it. The camera is just for capturing images until you can get back to it, download and work on them.

There are other buttons on the back of the M9 of course. The Play button is no longer needed. There’s nothing to play.

Delete: Some might think this useful but even my 16 gig card can take over 400 pictures at no compression DNG quality so who cares if I take a few bad ones. I’d rather carry another card.

ISO: As already mentioned, the logical step is to put the ISO setting on a round dial like the old Ms used to have. (I’m sure Leica can come with a more elegant solution than my pitiful efforts in Photoshop!)

Info: This could be reduced to remaining pictures and battery life. A simple window as the M8 had would suffice.

Set: The only button here that matters is the White balance which should be set to Auto since for 999 times out of a 1000 the camera does it perfectly. Since there is adjustment for this in Lightroom anyway I don’t think anyone would miss it. It could be set via the PC connection of course if you really wanted.

Losing the screen and all it’s associated electronics would also free up space in the camera body allowing Leica to reposition the sensor further back. This would mean that the lens mount could then be flush with the camera body. This would reduce the thickness of the camera by a good 5mm.

So that’s about it. An M9P would be simpler to use, lighter, the batteries would last longer, it would be more reliable but most of all it would be less expensive. Maybe this would allow Leica to drop the price so that even more people could afford to get into the M philosophy. Either the M9 or the M9P will be able to take exactly the same high quality image.

I’m convinced there’s a large market for this M9P. I would be quite happy without a screen. You think you want one but you have a viewfinder for composing the shot anyway, and the screen it pretty hopeless for viewing images anyway so why not wait until you get home to branch the camera and look at your shots. After all, in the old days, you had to develop them first so it’s still much quicker!

Even a very simple M9P would offer massive advantages over any M film camera ever made but the best part is that as a photographer, you will be made to think and make those choices alone without some gadgetry doing it for you. You will learn and you will improve your technique. Allowing the camera to do your work for you won’t make you a better photographer. All these so called ‘time saving devices’ are making us more stupid. If we’re not careful, we’ll become a race of morons, completely unable to think for ourselves. It fascinates me that my own eyes and brain are quite capable of calculating light and I like to keep my brain active. Taking your own pictures is a good way to do this.

Think before you drill

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Where it comes from I don’t know but I hate making holes in boats. Perhaps it’s the fundamental fact that holes and boats don’t go together. Holes let in water and it’s better to keep the water on the outside of the boat than the inside. There’s another good reason for not making holes and that is because they are hard to hide in the years to come when the essential (at the time) instrument you fitted is no longer working and of course it’s replacement has different mounting holes. Every old boat that I see has many old, unused holes. One or two is not so bad but after years and years they start to stand out and lend a tatty look to any boat which will reduce it’s value.

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When I bought my new boat I was determined not to make holes. Take for example the compass. Normally it is fitted into the cockpit bulkhead on the starboard side. This I find a bit silly really. I can understand the manufacturers reasoning but having the compass only on one side of the cockpit is far from ideal because when you are sitting on the port side it’s almost impossible to read it with any level of accuracy. Worse though, is the fact that it spoils a really good place to sit.

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The solution was to replace the 4 washboards in the companionway with a set of doors. A frame was made that simply drops into the groove where the wash boards used to be. (The doors can be removed and the washboards replaced at any time). At the bottom of the frame I left some space for the compass and other instruments to be fitted. To further reduce making holes, I opted for a tack tick speed and depth instrument that is solar powered and wireless so can be positioned anywhere on the boat. Also on this panel is the gps so all the instruments are in one central place.

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For the autopilot I bought an aerial mount and simply bolted it to the pushpit. I fitted the original bronze pin retainer into the aerial mount. This has worked fine for over 10,000 miles. It’s a much better option than the ugly mounting bracket that you can buy, does not require making holes and can be easily removed at any time.

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When it came to fitting the shower head in the bathroom, the same logic was applied. I made a wedge of wood and that fits nicely between the mirror and the wood trim above it. To hang the shower curtain I made tiny triangles of wood with hooks screwed in and glued them in at the corners where the plastic trim left small gaps.

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For the MP3 player, again I simply made a wedge of wood which sits between the fiddle fitting and the wood trim. I put Velcro on the wedge and on the back of the player to attach it.

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For the clock and barometer I used a loop of bungie cord which I fed behind the wooden slats on the cabin sides and stretched over the instruments. The clock cannot be adjusted, nor the battery replaced without access to the back so this is a better system than tiny screws that would have to removed every time I needed access.

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Fitting the spray hood without making holes caused some head scratching. Normally the spray hood would go right across the cabin top but I didn’t really fancy that since it adds too much windage, makes using the winches difficult and going forward from the cockpit awkward but worst of all requires making loads of holes in the cabin top. In the end I made a small spray hood that just covered the companionway. Now, when the weather is nasty, we can stay warm and dry by sitting on the door step and keeping a look out.

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The front of the spray hood is attached to the boat by sliding a rope into a groove. Normally this is achieved by using an alloy or plastic groove but I made it in wood. Two pieces were routed out and then glued together to create the slot. There was a wood trim there anyway so the new piece looks exactly the same and is only a little thicker.

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A friend made up custom hinges and frames for the spray hood and they are screwed to the wooden trim pieces on either side of the companionway. I have no problem drilling holes in wood as replacing or repairing wood is much easier than trying to repair holes in the gel coat. The sides of the spray hood are held to the boat by Tenax fasteners with the receivers also screwed to the wooden trim pieces.

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It really is amazing how you can avoid making holes if you think about it a little and often the solution is actually neater and more practical than if you made holes.

In the footsteps of Cartier Bresson

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If the photo above seems familiar that’s because it’s a modern interpretation of a very old and famous photograph taken by Henri Cartier Bresson. He was always one of my favourite photographers and a great influence. I loved his style. His pictures spoke of real life. He was able to take the most mundane subjects and turn them into iconic images. The picture below was taken in Hyeres in the south of France in 1932, it’s just a bit of a spiral staircase with a guy on a bike riding past yet it’s brilliant.

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Experts will tell you that he only ever used a 50mm lens, they will also tell you he never set shots up and caught images by chance. Like the famous image of a guy jumping across a puddle. They say that he simply stuck the lens through a hole in the fence and took a picture. It was sheer good luck that there was a bloke in the perfect place at the perfect time. If this is true, then it seems I will never get near to Cartier Bresson as a photographer as I don’t have anywhere near the same degree of luck!

For many years I wanted to see if I could find the place where he took that picture in Hyeres. Soon after I bought the M9 I decided to go and have a look since I was passing anyway. Hyeres is a lovely town and very old indeed. Surprisingly after just an hour wandering, I came across the same spot.

It hasn’t changed dramatically in 80 years. You can still see without any doubt that when I took the picture, I was standing in practically the same spot Cartier Bresson had done all those years ago. I used a 50mm lens and a shutter speed of 60th sec to capture the image but there’s a little less showing in my picture.

I tried the same shot (sans velo) with the 21mm lens but it was way too wide. I almost got away with the 50mm but not quite. It was not possible to stand farther back or higher up. I’ll have to try it again with a 35mm. Perhaps he took the shot with a 35mm and cropped a little afterwards.

All I know is I felt very happy to have found the same spot and to try and replicate it, albeit in a modern way. True, I have used a girl and a folding Brompton bicycle with smaller wheels but the movement is similar. The stairs and rails were not the original ones. I image that they would have been cut down and melted down for use during the war. It is fortunate indeed that they made the new railings at least similar to the originals although it’s a shame they are now white and not black. The tiles have been replaced on the steps and the road has obviously been re-covered but apart from that it’s pretty close and little changed in 80 years.

I dedicate this photo the memory of Henri.

Yawl rig for a Pacific Seacraft Dana 24

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This is a Photoshopped picture of Doolittle to see how she would look with a tan coloured mizzen sail.

It was Laurent Giles who said: Your sailing yacht can never be better than a skilful compromise between conflicting considerations. This elegant sentence so sums up yachting and is timeless, no matter how we progress, how much materials and science improves it is always true. Yachts today have highly evolved compromises to suit the modern sailor. Time is short and the modern sailor just wants to step aboard and set off. If conditions aren’t perfect he always has the engine to get him back in time for work on Monday.

Sadly this is pretty much the norm these days, here in the Med seeing yachts with only their mainsails up (or often no sails at all) and all motoring along when they could be sailing. I think the problem is that these modern boats are too compromised. To keep costs down only a simple rig can be acceptable and that means a sloop. It is no surprise that this is the most commonly seen rig. Deficiencies in hull design (from creating double cabins all over the place) can be overcome by the latest autopilots. Sure, these boats will perform well up to a point but if you want to actually sail in the direction (more or less) that you want to go more than just occasionally, you’ll need to improve the standard set up.

A surprisingly effective way to improve a modern sloop is to convert it into a yawl. In the old days this meant seriously modifying your boat to take a second mast and it’s associated rigging but a yawl rig can be easily effected using modern materials. Many yawl critics say that the extra weight and windage of the mizzen mast outweigh the benefits of the sail in the first place, it can even cause the boat to pitch more. This is why it is unusual to see yawl rigged yachts under 40 feet. An efficient mizzen sail for a yawl should be about one quarter the area of the mainsail or about 10% of the working sail area. Since the Dana’s mainsail is 150 sq feet in area, something around 35 sq feet would be appropriate. The working sail area of the Dana is 350 sq feet and this also suggests an area of about 35 sq feet.

Using a carbon mast from a windsurfer as a mizzen mast for a small yacht makes a lot of sense. At just 2 kilos it’s not a lot of weight aft. Since it is so strong and stiff, it needs no stays which reduces weight and rigging. It also means that it does not have to be a permanent feature on the boat. The mast is in two pieces which simple slot together so stowing the set up when not in use shouldn’t be too hard. If you have a small sailing dinghy, well you now have a mast and sail for it!

Having removed the arguments for not having the second mast, lets consider some of the issues that using a carbon mast entails. Although the mast is very stiff it will still bend with the wind in it. So long as the sail can be properly controlled for twist a small amount of bend will have little effect on the efficiency of the sail. Further more, the ‘bendability’ of the mast allows the sail to be completely flattened for when it is used as an anchor sail. Usually mizzen sails are cut very flat to cope with a wide range of uses. Using a windsurf mast gives back sail shape and thus usable power.

Since I have a horror of making holes in boats, where possible I will always try to find another way. This was particularly important as the yawl rig was really a fun experiment using an old cut down jib as a sail. I had no idea how well it would work, if at all. If it was a failure the boat could return to being a cutter again with no trace of the mizzen mast at all. As it turns out the mizzen mast has brought so many advantages that I can’t imagine life without it. The one annoying thing about it is that when it is in place we cannot step off the back of the boat but as the system can be dismantled in a couple of minutes it’s not a problem.

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Very strong mizzen mast bracket bolted through existing back stay chainplate

The biggest problem was how to sheet the sail. Often yawls have bowsprit aft (bumkins) but they need attaching to the boat and it adds complexity. A more interesting (and hole free) method is to use a boom at an angle so that the force is almost equal between the foot and the leech of the sail. This system needs two sheets which work well until the wind is aft of the boat but the mizzen would come down anyway if the wind was from aft. By using the boat’s telescopic boat hook as a boom it means that no extra weight is added to the boat. Boom (boat hook) is fitted to the sail with a shackle at one end, the boat hook is fitted through a grommet attached to the mast where the sleeve of the sail is cut away. A 3 to 1 purchase tightens the boom and allows the sail to be completely flattened.

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This picture shows the bracket that fits between the two halves of the pushpit, held in place with stainless clamps. The mast is held against the bracket by using the original life line. All this can be removed if needed.

The intention originally was to achieve two things. I did not care if the sail was so small it was unlikely to make the boat go faster, what I really wanted was to stop the boat sailing at anchor and to see if it would help it to hove to, something that has not been managed with a Dana. The High freeboard and bowsprit combined with the cutaway forefoot just pushes the head down. The Dana doesn’t so much hove to but rather sail badly and slowly to windward, it’s a hard boat to slow down. As it turns out this little scrap of cloth has exceeded all my expectations. I am delighted and amazed at the difference it has made especially considering that the area has been calculated at just 32 sq feet, about 10% smaller than recommended.

At anchor, the boat just sits facing the wind, the sailing has absolutely stopped. This is good news as the anchor rode would chafe on the bobstay every time the boat ‘tacked’, so now there is less wear and tear (and noise) on the boat. In addition the sail reduces rolling and damps down the speed of the roll, it’s quite noticeable. Basically anchoring has just become even more enjoyable. The benefits just keep coming, don’t you hate it when you are down below and the sun comes right through a port hole and lights you up. Well now as the boat moves so less one only needs to cover the one offending porthole and if you have solar panels it is so much easier to orientate them to the sun when the boat is more stationary. When leaving the anchorage the mizzen helps again. Simply put the engine in gear and bring in the anchor as the boat very slowly moves forward. Even without the engine, getting up the anchor is made easier by having the rope properly on the roller and not at some steep angle to it as the boat tacks one way or the other.

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Here is the experimental rig in use. Note how the bend in the mast flattens the sail so it doesn’t flap.

Thanks to the high freeboard, bowsprit and cut away forefoot, the Dana doesn’t hove to well. Even a staysail and mainsail is too much sail forward. It won’t hove to with only the main either so choices are limited. A great shame as I believe being able to heave to one of the best things a sailor can do when it’s all getting a bit much. The theory is that the sails and rudder are set up to oppose each other which makes the boat sit at about 45 degrees to the wind and waves. Most traditional boats hove to perfectly. The ideal situation is the boat sitting at about 45 degrees to the wind and very slowly forereaching. Like this the boat should slip almost sideways and in doing so creates a ‘slick’ on the weather side of the boat. The slick is a crucial component of heaving to as waves are more likely to be encouraged to break and lose much of their force before they hit the boat. Being sat like this can also be surprisingly comfortable despite truly horrendous conditions. With a mizzen, the Dana can now hove to in a text book fashion, slick and all. Simply by adjusting the sheeting angle of the mizzen, the angle at which the boat sits into the wind can be set. The mizzen would need to be reefed for much stronger winds.

The Dana is a fantastic boat, lets get that straight right from the off. It might have been one of the last ever boats designed without the aid of a computer but the guy who designed it had a lifetime of experience to put into it. All Bill Crealock’s boat are excellent but personally I believe the Dana is his master piece. It does everything so well, is no slouch, is very seaworthy and unbelievably tough but there are moments when I cannot find the right combination of sails for the moment and then we’re faced with motoring which we are loathed to do if we have any kind of wind. The problem is mainly one of weight. To get a 4 ton plus boat to move over nasty short waves, you need power from the rig but not too much or it becomes a mad roller coaster ride leaping from wave to wave as you go much too fast. Very exciting if you like that sort of thing I suppose and the boat couldn’t care less but I just prefer not being thrown around and getting wet.

So imagine my surprise when one breezy morning we tried the mizzen with just the staysail and the boat was away, slipping through the waves with a delicate and competent ease that belied the fact that we only had about 100 sq feet of sail up. Further more there was no need for an auto pilot. The boat just steered itself in a perfect straight line at about 40 degrees to the wind. Closer than I could have pointed in those conditions with the normal sails up. The course the boat steered was better than any auto pilot and certainly better than I could have done. Not once did we get wet and we didn’t take much longer to get there than we would have done using the other sails. Here is a really relaxing way to sail. Really most pleasant.

As an actual working sail the mizzen can’t be said to offer much in the way of more speed. It doesn’t help the boat point any higher or go any faster to windward. Downwind it needs to be taken down so that the boat doesn’t steer wild. In perfect conditions with the wind on the beam, there might be an extra half knot of boat speed to be had but that’s not what the Yawl rig is about.

Asides from all the advantages mentioned above, the mizzen has one more fabulous card up it’s sleeve. It can be used as a sail for steering. Our modern day reliance on electronics comes at a great cost. Instead of learning about our boat and the way the sails interact and create drive, we simply hit the ‘Auto’ button on the pilot and it does all the hard work for us. Imagine though that the pilot packs up, how would you steer your boat in the desired direction? There are many ways to make even the simplest of boats sail themselves but having a mizzen can be a real bonus. Many very famous boats were yawl rig. Dorade, Olin Steven’s masterpiece won the Fastnet. Gypsy Moth and of course Slocum’s Spray were all Yawls. One of the main reasons why the Spray was able to steer herself was the mizzen sail.

The Yawl rig was firstly an invention by fishermen to keep their boats facing the wind while hauling their nets. Later it was used as a way to get free sail area in racing yachts but I contend that using modern materials that a Yawl rig still has a valid place today regardless of how you use your boat and it can even make you a better sailor with a better understanding of how your boat works. For many modern boats, the easy conversion to a Yawl rig is as the saying goes, a no brainer!

Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 review

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Photo of Doolittle taken at Cannes by James Robinson Taylor Nikon D3 All photos in this post taken with a Leica Digilux 2 unless otherwise stated.

It’s been over five years now since I first bought my Dana 24 and in that time it has crossed the Atlantic from West to East, visited three continents and sailed over 10,000 miles. It is also my year round home. It would be true to say that I am fairly intimate with my boat, it’s construction and behaviour. What follows is an article about living with a Dana 24.

Bill Crealock the designer of the Dana was simply a genius. When he designed the Dana back in the early 1980s he was about 65 years old and he used all his hard earned experience gained from a lifetime of creating and sailing yachts. The Dana may well have been one of the last yachts designed without the aid of a computer.

Today most boats are designed around their accommodation. With the Dana the hull was designed first to be seaworthy and efficient with the accommodation being cleverly designed to fit within afterwards. The Dana is also built to a specification and not to a price and because of this she could never be described as a cheap boat. A new Dana will set you back about $150,000 which is a lot for such a small boat. Secondhand ones start from about $50,000 if you can find one as they get snapped up pretty quick.

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A jaunty sheer and a traditional look. The Dana might be a practical boat but she’s noticed everywhere she goes and passers by always comment positively.

When a boat is designed with accommodation in mind and the hull shape created afterwards all sorts of undesirable characteristics come to light. Because people insist on aft cabins these days, sterns have become wider and wider making steering the boat difficult and possibly dangerous in heavy weather situations. However this problem is solved by the latest auto pilots which can steer for days on end without losing concentration or getting tired. The problem arises when the auto pilot inevitably packs up and the hapless owner is forced to steer without it.

It’s facts like this that are not apparent to people new to sailing but seaworthyness and easy steering are basic traits that all yachts should possess. Many people will not even consider the Dana because it has no aft cabin or is only 24 feet long. The misconception being that big boats are better, more comfortable and faster. This is only basically true. A well designed small boat can be much better than a poorly designed big boat.

Something else that the new sailor may not realise is the importance of a product that has been built to a specification and not to a price. Going to sea should be taken seriously and many modern boats have far too many compromises to safety because of the need to compete in the market place. One has to look a bit closer than skin deep to see why this is important.

Most modern boats work very well in moderate conditions but there are times at sea when the conditions are truly horrendous and it’s at times like these you will realise just how important it is to be aboard a solid well built boat you can trust. The Dana instils confidence with it’s quality feel and solid build.

So the Dana is not for everyone but if you respect the sea and want a practical, competent, safe and very comfortable small yacht, then take a closer look.

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The first thing one realises is that the Dana may only be 24 feet long on deck but in every respect she feels much bigger. Most visitors are surprised to learn that the boat is so short, they normally put her length at nearer 30 feet. The interior is Crealock at his best. An open plan accommodation that allows a heads compartment that is large enough for a sink, toilet and a shower, and indeed has a shower tray already fitted as standard, it sleeps 4 very comfortably, two in the forward V berth and one either side on the saloon bunks, your feet go into a large space under the V berth. They are hidden behind the cushions at the end of the saloon bunks – See pic above.

The galley has a fully gimbling 2 burner oven and even a excellent, top loading well insulated 100 litre cold box. There is a table that slides away under the front bunk which can seat 4 around it. There is storage in every spare space. It is incredible just how many stores can be packed away on a Dana. Enough supplies for a month can be carried with ease making the Dana much much more than just a weekender. This boat can go anywhere.

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Here are all the stores bought for the Transat (food for about 45 days) and yes, unbelievably it all went away somewhere with room to spare.

Most people will look at two things when choosing a boat. The price and the length but this is an inadequate way to judge any craft. We need to look closer and not just at the quality of the build or the fittings used in it’s construction. A good design is as important as a good build. Even the most beautifully constructed yacht will fail if it’s a poor design.

The problem for designers is that if they have done their job right in the first place, you will never know how good the design is because bad design gets noticed but good design doesn’t. For example, there are many boats which are so badly designed that water can collect on deck or in the cockpit. There’s nothing more annoying than having to mop up a puddle before you can even sit down. This is bad design and it is more common than you might think.

Water doesn’t collect anywhere on a Dana, all the surfaces and locker openings have angles or deep gutters to allow the water to flow away. The Dana takes it one stage further though. All the water that collects on the deck runs out through two scuppers on each side of the hull. What this means is that there are no streaks of dirt down the hull as you will find on many modern boats. Even the teak rubbing strake has a groove cut into it so that drips of water fall from the strake instead of running down the hull and making streaks. You would be amazed at how many modern boats have omitted this basic and sensible feature.

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There’s more. There are no visible seacocks on either side of the hull. They are all either below the water or exit through the transom. This makes the hull much tidier and since there are no streaks either, thanks to PSCs water manipulation system, the hull remains clean at all times. This is more than just helpful, dirt and grime will damage gel coat given time so by staying clean, it stays good looking and shiny for longer.

Most Danas have cream coloured hulls with a contrasting top strake. I think this is unnecessary. They do it because it breaks up the hull and makes it look longer. The only problem with this is that it makes the already fairly boxy cabin look higher than it is. I solved this by not having one. 

While we’re on the subject of design lets look at some of the details that you just won’t find on other production boats. The high stanchions sit on raised pads and are not placed directly on the deck, this helps to stop water from getting into the boat should the sealant fail. On the foredeck there is a raised centre moulding. For a long time it had me puzzled. Perhaps it was to reinforce the foredeck? In fact it is there as a foot hold. Clever stuff.

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Other things that might not be so obvious are the numerous and large cleats on deck. Every fitting on the boat is bolted through with backing pads. All the fittings are made of solid bronze, including the 8 opening port holes.

Another good bit of design that you might have missed is the simple fact that at anchor, the Dana does not slap her arse into the waves. So many modern boats have ‘sugar scoop’ transoms, I suppose to allow a convenient swimming platform but when the boat’s stern falls on a wave it crashes down sending out a blast of water every time. The noise this makes is most disconcerting and frankly annoying. It’s hard to relax with a noise like this. The Dana has no stupid sugar scoop, she has instead, a simple and seaworthy flat transom.

The Dana does come as standard with a swimming ladder whose bottom step goes far into the water making getting in and out of the water a doddle although it does make getting on and off from the stern at the quay rather inconvenient. The Dana is an American boat however and they generally moor alongside and not stern too. Here’s yet another nice feature: The life lines come off on either side of the cockpit and at the stern making getting aboard, no matter how you are tied up, very easy indeed.

One of the best things about the Dana is that it is resistant to rolling at anchor. My last boat was simply dreadful and I’ve seen many small boats rolling so badly one wonders how the occupants can survive with their sanity intact. There is nothing more annoying than a boat that rolls at anchor. There are things you can do to try and alleviate the rolling but there is nothing better than a hull form that stops it happening in the first place. To me, this is one of the Dana’s best features. We do a lot of anchoring so it’s very important that the boat is stable.

 

Construction

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Fresh out of the mould. Incredible finish.

The Dana weighs about 4 tons and that’s a lot for a 24 foot boat. The lead ballast alone weighs 1.4 tons, or about 40% which is quite a lot by today’s standards. There’s no skimping on the materials of a Dana. The gel coat is sprayed on to a generous thickness. I can tell this from some of the cutouts I kept from where sea cocks have been fitted. The gel coat appears to be about 2mm thick! This is good news as it means that it can be polished many times before wearing through.

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This photo shows a cut out which came from the Transom when I cut a hole to install an electric socket. It is a full 28mm thick!

Many modern cheap boats are made using only a chopped strand mat sprayed on with a time saving gun. The Dana is completely hand made using a variety of different cloths and then hand squeegied to get the very best cloth to resin ratio. The layup is generous indeed and the Dana’s hull is much thicker than any other contemporary boat of the same length. The first layer of resin is Vinylester which is more resistant to water than plain polyester and on top of this already over the top build, four coats of epoxy paint are added to further protect against osmosis.

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This is a photo of the inside of the Dana mould. It has a removable rear section that allows the boat to be extracted.

A detail perhaps not fully appreciated is that until recently all PSC boats were laid up in open sheds in California (they are now in Carolina) where the humidity was always low. The perfect environment to layup a fibreglass hull. No wonder PSC offered a 10 year hull warranty. To this day, I have not heard of one PSC yacht from any era having osmosis.

Having moulded the hull, an inner liner is glued in to further strengthen the structure but this inner liner does so much more. It incorporates the water tanks, engine beds, fridge, bunks and the floor. It is a very clever bit of design. The liner is bonded in everywhere it touches. This obsessive attention to detail makes for one incredibly strong boat. The bulkheads are fitted and glassed in as well, and in places they are also bolted in. Often it’s the bulkheads that give way on modern yachts. This is something I just cannot imagine happening on the Dana. 

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This photo shows a Dana 24 with the inner liner bonded in. Note also the protected surfaces, a sign of a boat builder who cares.

The deck moulding is made in a similar way and uses balsa to strengthen and insulate the deck, and plywood in areas where more strength is required, such as winch and stanchion bases. It is then glued to the hull using 3M 5200 and bolted through every three inches or so. This makes for a very strong and waterproof join. There is no flex on the boat anywhere. You can jump up and down anywhere on deck but you’ll see no movement. On a Bavaria 34 I viewed, my 55 kilos was enough to get the side decks flexing as I merely walked on them.

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This is the Dana deck mould. Visible in the background are the open sheds where the boats are laid up.

On the way back from the Azores we fell off a wave. We’d had a force six on the beam for a few days and the waves had built up quite a height and on the top of the crest of a particularly big one we fell off it and into the trough 2 metres below. What happened? Nothing much. A huge splash as water was forced out from under the hull and our stomachs left us behind but apart from that nothing. There were no groans, creaks or any kind of indication that the hull was flexing. Nothing fell off the shelves, in fact the motion down below was actually rather mellow and well damped. It’s times like this when you realise the importance of good design and solid build.

The Dana is a heavy boat but that’s a good thing in rough weather. A light boat might be faster but it’s more susceptible to waves and the quicker movement will tire you out quicker. At sea, the weight of the Dana assures a more comfy ride and slower motion.

Things I like about the Dana is the moulded in lead keel. There are no bolts to corrode. The keel simply cannot fall off. The rudder is fully protected behind the Dana’s full keel. This is something that almost no other manufacturer offers anymore but to my mind, a rudder is really important so it needs protecting and it needs to be strong. Modern yachts mostly have the rudder sticking out all vulnerable to damage. It’s done this way because it reduces drag and makes the boat lighter but I’ll take a fully protected rudder every time.

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Not only is the rudder protected but it is also very strong and simple. It consists of a strong framework of stainless steel and has been engineered to be self supporting yet just to be sure PSC also fit a hefty bronze gudgeon to support the bottom end. This is one strong rudder. You might think this is simply overkill but in 25 years of making the Dana and 350 examples there are no stories about any that have fallen off or failed. Not many manufacturers today can say the same! Considering how important a rudder is I applaud PSCs efforts.

All the solid bronze seacocks are screwed and bolted in with plywood backing pads. They are all oversized and totally solid. Every seacock is labelled so there’s no mistake about which outlet is which. This is a very simple detail but could be a life saver in certain situations and in any case is a very proper way to do things.

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The mast and rig on the Dana is also heavy duty yet simple. Chainplates are chunky and bolted through with backing plates. Another nice feature that might not be obvious is that they are placed on the outside of the hull which has the advantage of making the decks wider and thus easier to walk along and also reduce the chance of deck leaks. The painted alloy mast is deck stepped in a stainless tabernackle that allows for single handed mast lowering, which is available as one of the many options with the Dana.

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A Dana under construction.

Because the boat is not built to a price, PSC only select the best products for it and it’s not just the obvious stuff like stoves and cleats, it goes much further than skin deep. For example, PSC use only tinned copper wire for their boats. This is much better and slows down corrosion yet as far as I know, not one European manufacturer uses it. Not only are the cables tinned but they are also oversize. Most manufacturers use the thinnest they can get away with which is fine if you don’t add any further electrics but this seems unlikely. As soon as you add a few new toys there will be an unhelpful voltage drop.

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The boat is full of nice little details. For example, all screw heads are aligned, no matter whether they are visible or not. Where the capping is joined PSC fit ‘dog bone’ inserts and I don’t know if it was deliberate but there’s a perfect place for two mugs of tea in the cockpit drains.

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So there you have  a basic run down of the construction of the Dana. I’ve sailed on and worked on a great deal of boats in the last 25 years and I have never seen anything that compares to the Dana. Actually that’s not true. I did work on a Riva Aquarama for a while and they had taken anality to a whole new level with that but since it’s a speedboat and made of wood, the comparison is somewhat pointless.

 

Sailing

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Often heavy displacement boats like the Dana have a reputation for being poor sailors and it has been said that the Dana doesn’t sail well in light airs. I contest this and blame the many owners who load up the boat with drag inducing additions like mast steps, fixed 3 blade props, bbqs, outboard engines, davits, solar panels etc. If the boat is kept clean and the weight kept out of her ends I have found the Dana to sail well in light airs. It’s true that if there is a chop she doesn’t do so well. The trick is not to ‘pinch’ and to ease the sheets a little. I have surprised many much bigger boats in light airs.

The standard Dana is a sloop with a 130% genoa fitted but many were sold as cutters with a small staysail and a 110% jib. The Dana needs running back stays if you want to use the staysail as a heavy weather sail or the mast will pump. I do not believe that the Dana was ever supplied with runners but there’s a chance that the mast will have the necessary fitting already on it so fitting them is no hardship.

With some breeze there’s no stopping the Dana. She sails as if on rails. I know it’s a cliché but she does. She has quite a lot of sail area for a 24 foot boat and does everything very well indeed. She sails upwind well and although she doesn’t point as high as some more modern yachts, she never disgraces herself. She will point very high but she loses too much speed so I have found that she’s happiest (and fastest) about 40 degrees from the apparent wind.

Sailing to windward her helm becomes heavier but the angle of the rudder is very slight. She makes no leeway that I can discern. That long keel has plenty of bite. Her hull is easily driven and she prefers to sail more of less upright, she will still perform when over pressed and well heeled but it loads up the helm and is quite hard work so it’s simply better to pop a reef in since she’ll go almost as fast a lot more comfortably with less sail. Often in a good breeze we’ve averaged 6 knots to windward.

With the wind on the beam she sails beautifully with very little roll and only a slight heel. Because she has no overhangs, her ultimate speed is limited but she gets to hull speed very quickly and will hold it for weeks on end. It’s like being on a magic carpet ride, so smooth is her motion. Our best speed on a broad reach was over 7 knots. This was a steady speed we maintained. Mind you we had 35 knots of wind, two reefs in the main and the staysail.

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Downwind the Dana is a witch. Her easily driven hull slips through the water with an effortless grace and plenty of speed. Even the autopilot can cope which is very unusual, many boats are just too lively downwind but again, that long keel keeps it all in hand. She does roll downwind but the motion is mellow and the angle she heels to not excessive. I have sailed on a lot of boats which roll much worse. I find the best sail set up for downwind sailing is to put the main on one side with a preventer line tied up forward. I then use a telescopic whisker pole to pole out the jib or staysail (depending on how much wind there is). This ‘goosewing’ set up is excellent and the Dana’s long keel means that you can have main sail up and the boat will still steer well. In fact, once the wind gets up, I drop all the foresails and carry on with just a reefed main. Even the autopilot can steer the boat.

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On most voyages we can expect to average about 120 miles a day (5 kts ave) and this is most respectable. In light airs many big boats do not do so well.

The Dana has one peculiar trait that I have not yet managed to fully understand. When sailing with the wind on the stern quarter in big waves, she will turn her transom to face the next wave head on, then as the wave passes under her, she turns away a few degrees and goes down the wave obliquely and at speed only to repeat this when the next wave appears. If you have ever read Moitessier you will know that he thought this was a great way to cope with big waves in a storm and the Dana does it all by herself! It’s not a fluke either, it happens every time we are in a quartering sea. Even at anchor she shows a tendency to turn her stern into the waves if the wind is not present. It’s a very helpful and interesting trait as it’s far more comfortable to pitch than roll.

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Doolittle is a cutter rig and this set up is very versatile but we also have an MPS which is excellent here in the Med where there are often extremely light winds. For offshore cruising I would always take the cutter rig over a sloop. When it’s very windy, the staysail and reefed main is a good combination. The foresails are high cut so they’re easy to look under and should be high enough to be out of the way of even the biggest waves.

The feel on the helm of the Dana is a little dull. She’s responsive enough and changes direction quickly but there’s little feedback. With the Navico TP30 autopilot it’s rare when I have to take the helm. I accept the dull feel on the tiller because although it’s great once in a while to take the helm of a well balanced fast boat, you soon tire of it after a few hours. The bottom line is that the Dana is built for cruising and not for racing. Small price to pay really.

Heavy weather sailing

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Wind and waves building mid Atlantic.

The Dana takes bad weather in her stride and has so well balanced a hull form that she will even sail downwind in a gale under bare poles with just the tiller pilot steering the boat.

The conditions outside might be horrific but down below the motion is very smooth, even in the roughest seas. A good self steering system means you don’t need to be outside in the weather. The boat will take care of herself while you stay below and conserve your energy for any possible emergencies that might occur.

One time we were about 50 miles from Minorca when we were hit by a nasty storm. The waves grew very large and came at us from all directions. It was night time of course and we were lit by hundreds of flashes of lightning. The rain was torrential and horizontal in the strong winds. We set the boat on course to run with it and stayed below poking our heads out every now and then. Not that we could see much, it was dark and the visibility was very poor. As dawn broke and the day got brighter, we finally saw the conditions we’d sailed through all night. To this day I have not seen conditions like it. I laughed (perhaps slightly hysterically) to think that we were there at all. It was definitely one of those, ‘What the hell are we doing here’ situations.

If I had been in any other boat I might have been worried but the Dana is so solid and tough that I knew she wouldn’t let us down. It would be the crew who failed her, not the other way around. At one point we were knocked down. Celia was amazed at the colour of the windows, they were all green. It was because we had been knocked down to 90 degrees and a wave had broken over the deck. What she was looking at was the sea! She was in one of the saloon bunks when we were knocked down but she didn’t even realise what had happened because the motion was so mellow. We popped up in just a moment. By the time I got to the cockpit, any water that had filled the cockpit had already gone through the two cockpit drains.

The only evidence of what had happened was a small dent on the hanging locker door opposite the galley where the kettle had simply fallen off the stove because of the extreme angle the boat had got to and bashed into it. This is one tough boat. No matter what the conditions you feel that she could take a lot more. I wouldn’t hesitate to go anywhere in a Dana. A measure of this confidence is the fact that we don’t even carry a life raft.

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25 knots of wind in the Straits of Gibraltar on route to Africa.

Having sailed over 10,000 miles in Doolittle I can happily say that I would take her anywhere and she wouldn’t let me down. The only very slight niggle I have is that once, just once, we were sailing down a particularly steep wave and I was on the foredeck tidying the sails and I felt that the bows lacked a bit of buoyancy. The bow’s entry is quite fine and the bows not particularly flared and there is little overhang. It was just a feeling that I had, after all the wave didn’t even get near the deck and I wondered if in an extreme situation she might want to pitch pole. No one else has mentioned this is 25 years so perhaps I’m just being paranoid.

One thing that the Dana will not do is hove to and it’s a shame because being hove to is an excellent tactic in heavy weather or whenever you just want to stop. Most modern boats don’t do this very well either whereas most old classic yachts do. The problem the Dana has is that she has a high freeboard up forward, a bowsprit and thus a lot of leverage at the bows which catches the wind and then the bows get blown off. Her keel is cut away at the bows and this certainly doesn’t help.

There’s not much that can be done. One can’t change the shape of the keel or reduce the freeboard. So she won’t hove to. At best she sort of sails badly to windward, heading up to about 45 degrees before being knocked off and dropping down to 90 degrees before heading up again. In fact she’s quite happy in nasty conditions like this but she would be better if she would just sit at 45 degrees to the wind. Once with a completely flat sea and a very light breeze, I was able to get Doolittle to hove to for half an hour with just the main sail. I was very pleased to see that she didn’t fore reach at all and merely drifted sideways leaving a massive textbook slick to weather.

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This photo shows the Yawl rig as it will be when finished. The current sail is experimental.

The solution I have for this is to turn the Dana into a yawl with the addition of a small temporary mizzen mast. After all, it was exactly what Slocum did with the Spray, and if it was good enough for Captain Slocum, then it’s good enough for me! This little mizzen (Slocum called it a jigger) allows the Dana to hove to perfectly. Not only that but it makes an excellent heavy wind sail when used in conjunction with the staysail. The boat becomes perfectly balanced and can be steered simply by adjusting the angle of the mizzen sail. When it’s choppy this combination allows the Dana to sail through the waves with very little effort.

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This photo shows the current experimental rig made from a 40 year old jib found in a skip. It works extremely well.

This mizzen mast is also very helpful at the anchorage. The Dana sails about all over the place when anchored. I don’t really mind but when it’s very windy, the bows catch the wind and she drops downwind and pulls up hard against the anchor and because the boat is so heavy it can have enough force to rip the anchor out of the sea bed. By flying the mizzen, she behaves impeccably at anchor facing directly into the wind as if aground. Another advantage of the mizzen is when you come to pull up the anchor. Without it, getting the anchor up can take time as the boat is either on one tack or the other. The sail also damps the roll slightly when anchored.

 

Motoring

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Doolittle in the Canal du Midi. How many ocean going yachts can also motor along canals?

It’s a sad fact of life that a yacht today needs a motor. Sailing into harbours is usually forbidden and with the amount of traffic at sea these days, a motor has become a necessity. The early Danas were fitted with a Yanmar 2GM20 two cylinder diesel engine producing about 18 hp. This seems a good choice for the heavy Dana.

The later Danas and Doolittle were fitted with the latest 3YM20 engines, now three cylinders and producing 21 hp. I did ask PSC at the time why they fitted such a big engine to such a small boat. It seems that the new range of engines from Yanmar started at 15 hp (2 cylinder) and they didn’t want to go ‘down’ in size so went up instead.

The 3YM is no heavier than the old 2GM so there’s no real reason not to fit a larger engine although I personally think the 15 hp would have been fine but I must confess, there have been a few times when I have been grateful for the full 21 hp that the 3YM delivers. I also like the fact that a 3 cylinder engine is smoother by design than a twin.

The 3YM is longer however and this has reduced the options for stern gear. I wanted to fit an Aquadrive as this is simply the best flexible coupling money can buy and reduces vibrations to almost nothing but there just isn’t the space to do it as the motor is so far back. In the end I fitted a Vetus Bullflex unit which works ok but not as well as an aquadrive.

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This picture shows how little room there is for a flexible coupling.

The engine installation is excellent of course. The engine sits on part of the interior moulding which also contains a sump to catch any spills or leaks from the engine. The 60 litre fuel tank lives behind the lead keel under the floor and and is generally made of aluminium. Later Danas are fitted with fibreglass tanks which should last a lifetime.

There are all the usual filters and water separators naturally but also an electric fuel pump which does nothing it’s whole life unless for some reason the engine’s own fuel pump packs up. I love the whole PSC philosophy of carefully thought out solutions to age old problems, but I must say that even I feel that this is over kill. Engine fuel pumps are extremely reliable so I question the need for a back up fuel pump. It might be better to carry a spare engine fuel pump as they are very small and simply change it if it fails, rather than having a heavy, large and mostly useless electric pump in the engine bay. That said, it’s there and maybe one day I will be very glad of it.

All pipes are top quality and reinforced, held in place correctly where necessary. Wherever a pipe goes through a bulk head, it is always protected from chafe by the use of a piece of larger diameter pipe in the hole.

Since my boat has the 3YM I can’t really comment about the way the Dana works with the 2GM as I have only been on an old Dana briefly. What I do remember is that the engine was clattery and noisy. When I first got Doolittle, she was fitted with a 2 bladed fixed prop. With this she would reach hull speed (6.25kts) easily enough and could fight her way through a chop but she wouldn’t stop! This made moving the boat around in a marina tricky when it was windy as you need a bit of speed but then were unable to stop. So manoeuvres had to be done slowly which was fine so long as there was no wind on the side of the boat.

The 3YM was noisy on Doolittle as well. This is partly due to the two bladed prop, the fact there is very little sound proofing fitted to the engine bay, no flexible coupling on the motor but mainly, I think, because the hull on the Dana is so dense that it transmits sound readily. We know this because we can often hear dolphins calling long before we see them.

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The first thing I did was fit Halyard sound proofing to the engine bay. I then fitted the Vetus Bullflex shaft coupling and finally a 3 bladed feathering Kiwiprop. This helped a lot but it’s still not the quietest or smoothest engine installation I have known. My friend Gus has a PSC Flicka and this has a single cylinder Yanmar 1GM engine. Even from new it was a noisy and clattery installation. Since then Gus has fitted an Aquadrive, sound proofing and a 3 bladed prop and it is much improved but like Doolittle, there’s no shutting it up completely. It’s the down side of owning such a solid boat!

With the 3YM engine there’s plenty of power for moving the boat in the marina. The Dana can be made to turn almost in it’s own length, she is really very agile. She will happily go backwards as well. However if there is wind on the beam of any strength then you have a problem. The cut away forefoot and all that freeboard means that the bows will get blown down and there’s not much you can do about it.

Having the Kiwiprop helps a lot and I can now confidently moor Doolittle in the most demanding conditions. I can get speed up in moments but more importantly I can stop the boat instantly as well. The power of the Kiwiprop in reverse is awesome. Often moving the boat with the old two bladed prop was impossible, the prop just didn’t have the bite and the boat was too heavy.

Manoeuvring the Dana is made easier by a tiller that lifts up and allows you to stand in the cockpit and look right along the boat. Most Danas are fitted with twin lever engine controls which seem very complicated to me so fitted to Doolittle is a removable handle Spinlock system. Incidentally the twin lever system invalidates the engine guarantee so I never did understand why PSC fitted them. It must be an American preference thing.

The hull of the Dana is very easily driven and at speeds of up to about 5 knots there is virtually no wash at all. With just 2200 rpm we can motor at 5 knots on a flat sea. This uses about 1.25litres an hour so we have a range of about 40 hours which isn’t huge but then this is a sailing boat! Considering the size of the engine and the weight of the boat it’s not bad fuel economy really.

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There’s plenty of room behind the engine for a decent sized hot water tank. The one I fitted is a stainless steel 20 litre version that heats water from the mains or from the engine. It only takes about 15 minutes to heat up and there’s more than enough for two very generous showers.

 

 Living aboard

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This picture shows the Dana’s spacious oiled teak interior. Over 6 foot of headroom and even a table that slides away under the V berth.

For two the Dana is a perfect boat. We might live on a 24 foot boat but both feel that we have as many comforts as any landlubber. In port we sleep on the large V berth forward. It is a full 2 metres long and wide, tapering as it goes forward. The foam is latex and even after 5 years of being slept on it’s lost nothing of it’s springyness and comfort. The latex foam was a $400 option. Money well spent. The V berth is a supremely comfy bed made all the more pleasant by having the forehatch directly above one’s head. I often wonder how many people get to fall asleep while looking at the stars. It’s by far the best bed I’ve ever owned. Under the bed is a very large locker which runs the whole width of the boat. It’s not the easiest to get to as the two bunk cushions need to be moved out of the way first but for things that you don’t need often it’s a very useful space.

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View from the V bunk looking aft.

The saloon bunks are also latex and extremely comfortable to sit on. They also make excellent sea berths, being located as they are centrally in the boat. Because the boat was designed for Americans all the dimensions are generous. Even the saloon bunks are fully 2 metres long and easily wide enough for bottoms and sleeping. There are 3 lockers under each bunk which can take a huge amount of food. They are top loading.

There is over 6 foot headroom throughout the cabin which is pretty good for a 24 foot boat. The floor is almost a metre wide and made of teak and holly plywood. Access to the fuel tank is by a lift out floor board. The tank has a built in fuel gauge which can only be seen by lifting the floor.

Access to the bilge behind the fuel tank is next to impossible. There’s no room behind the engine to get in and there’s not much at the tank end either. Best advice: Don’t drop anything in there! Access to the engine is excellent. There is a large panel under the companionway that comes out and also a very large cockpit engine panel held down with four knurled bronze nuts. Things like fuel filters and water strainers are easy to get at with the cockpit cover out.

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Leica M9, 21mm Asph Cabin looking aft. Box under companionway is a replacement for the original steps. Doors are not original either. Originally there were 4 solid teak washboards.

The boat is all teak below. There is some fibreglass showing but it is in no way offensive and simply helps to brighten the interior. If the whole boat was wood it might be a bit much. The finish is oil and not varnish although some Danas were varnished from new, others have been varnished since.

The boat has a very nice spacious and open feel to it. It’s not poky. The 8 opening bronze port holes and the forehatch let in a lot of light and air if you want. If the Dana has a fault down below it’s the lack of ventilation. This is something that very few modern boat builders consider properly. It’s true that in fine weather the Dana is better ventilated than most boats but as soon as it starts raining you need to close the ports or water will run in from the cabin top.

The problem with port holes is that their frames condensate and drip water down the cabin sides. There’s not much that can be done about this. A better design of port holes would help but no one has attempted this. The ports PSC use now for the Dana are pressed stainless ones which are smaller and give the Dana a squinty look, also they look like baking tins and to my mind spoil the boat completely. In the old days, PSC had their own portholes cast in New Zealand. They even had the PSC logo embossed in the outside frames. I never did discover why they stopped using them but it was a mistake as they gave the boat a nice individual look that no other boats on the market could match.

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As hard as they tried, PSC just couldn’t get their hands on an original set of ports for Doolittle so I had to settle for these made by New Found Metals. They are OK but not a patch on the originals but still better than the baking tin specials they use now.

The hatch on Doolittle is a Bomar venting hatch which is not standard, it was something I insisted on. The lockers and cupboards do not have ventilation holes between them, they are all so well glassed in. PSC could have saved some weight and allowed air to pass all through the boat even through closed lockers.

Some of the locker doors are made with slats for ventilation which is helpful but what they should have done is made every locker door like this. I realise that they have to keep the price reasonable and that’s probably why not all the locker doors are vented. Doolittle has flush fitting locker doors using Soss invisible hinges. Early Danas had frames with external brass hinges.

There are shelves on either side of the V berth with removable fiddles. There is room here for most of our clothes. Behind the saloon bunks there are further shelves with removable fiddles and these are perfect for books. On some Danas the shelf is turned into cupboards but I think they make the boat look a bit fussy and cluttered. On Doolittle there are teak slats but on many Danas there is simply a pvc covered panel.

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The doors I made to replace the original washboards. The entire assembly lifts out easily and also houses the compass, gps and TackTick log.

The Dana has 4 solid teak wash boards that slot in and a solid sliding hatch made of fibreglass. We soon got bored of fitting and removing the boards so I made some doors which is a much more sensible solution if you live aboard. Under the washboards is a small yet useful locker. Teak steps deliver you into the cabin and these can be removed for access to the engine panel when needed. I always found that they rattled when the engine was running and no amount of wedges would stop the noise for long so eventually I removed them and made a box instead. This box is also a place for shoes, rubbish and recycling. Like most boats, the Dana has no dedicated place for rubbish as standard.

The galley is on the port side by the companion way. There is a two burner hob, grill and oven made by Force 10. Because it’s an American boat it has the American version which is a few inches wider than the European one. It’s an excellent oven with flame failure devises and a spark for lighting the various flames. There is a double glazed window in the oven and the door slides under the stove when open. This simple feature is really needed or the door would stick too far into the cabin to be safe. There is a work top that covers the stove and lives behind in it’s own slot. Very tidy and simple.

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Author in the fridge. Most lockers on the Dana are big enough to get into.

Some Danas had a small lift up table to the right of the stove which increases the work surface in the galley which isn’t huge, most of it taken up by the fridge, sink and stove. The fridge lid is sensibly made in two parts hinged in the middle so you don’t have to shift everything off the top to get into the fridge. The fridge is very well insulated with a minimum of four inches of foam all around it. It’s special foam that is poured in a liquid form which then sets. Even the fridge lid is about three inches thick and because it’s a top loader it is even more efficient. Inside the fridge are two clear Perspex shelves dividing the space. The fridge has a 100 litre capacity and is actually big enough for me to get into. Most boats 30 feet long don’t have a fridge this size.

It’s relatively easy to access the contents even though it is placed far aft in the galley. Behind the fridge is a useful cupboard although most Danas use this space to make a space wasting place for plates and cups. When we ordered Doolittle we asked PSC to fit a closed cupboard which has worked well. Next to the fridge is a good deep stainless sink with a foot pump to get water out of the water tank which is moulded in at the front of the boat under the bed. It has a capacity of 150 litres. Above the fridge is the electric panel which hinges down for easy access to display beautifully presented and tidy colour coded wires. The switches used are breakers which simply turn off if short circuited.

Under the sink is a large cupboard taken up mainly by the fridge drain pump and the sink seacock. In some respects I wish that PSC had moved the seacock slightly to allow a more useful locker but it’s right in the middle. They do this because all seacocks should be accessible quickly in the event of a problem. What you don’t want is to have to empty a locker to get to one. It’s also easier for PSC to fit the seacocks centrally as they are easier to fit and connect.

Often one wonders why something has been done a certain way on the Dana but usually there is a good reason for it. I might not always agree that PSC chose the right way but they did at least consider it and then chose the best compromise that fitted into their philosophy for building boats. After all, the Dana is a production boat and costs must be cut somehow. What you end up with is a strong and trusty seaworthy boat that won’t get sunk by accident.

Behind the sink and cooker is a deep cupboard with two sliding doors. It’s a bit dangerous having to reach across a possibly hot stove to get out the olive oil but it’s too good a space not be used for a cupboard but one soon learns to take care! There is also a large locker under the stove.

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The Dana is well lit with no less than eight lamps in the cabin. Four in the ceiling and four reading lamps well placed at each end of the saloon bunks. The headlining in the Dana needs special mention. It is made of pvc and has full length zips in it. The zips allow access to the deck, should you need to fit something to it. They can also be unzipped when leaving the boat for a bit of ventilation. It’s very smart and a vast improvement on most manufacturers efforts. Also in the ceiling are two long teak hand holds which are placed parallel to the saloon bunks creating an obvious place to tie the lee cloths to.

Above the foot of the bed is another big locker also big enough for me to climb into, and at the back of that a small panel comes out and gives access to the chain locker.

Opposite the galley is a hanging locker and yes, you guessed it, I can get in that one too! It is lined with cedar and this gives a lovely smell to the clothes hung up in there. In fact we have divided the cupboard with shelves which utilises the space much more efficiently. Above the locker is a useful fiddled space which is used for fruit mainly.

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The heads compartment has all you need but is small. This is actually a bonus at sea when it’s rough as you can wedge yourself in when on the throne. The toilet is a Grocco HF. It has a solid bronze base and a plastic pump. It has not been very reliable and has needed repairs a few times. The design is a bit pants and could be improved. The spares kit they sell for it doesn’t contain the O rings you need for the small bronze switch over valve which leaks after a year or so.

There’s a round shallow sink in the heads and a hand pump to get at the water but this was the first thing to get rid of. I have never understood hand pumps since you need at least one hand to use it but how can you wash your hands like this? Not only this but in their wisdom, PSC put  the pump on the right hand side of the sink whereas it would have been better looking and more efficient on the left hand side.

There is a locker next to the sink and another under it. Neither of these lockers have vented doors but they should have. Behind the toilet is a very large locker with double vented doors, I suppose for wet waterproofs but we use it for everything but. The battery charger and the inverter are fitted in this locker as they are nearest to the batteries.

There is a shower grate made of teak and a useful and deep sump to catch the shower water. There is a switch by the sink which operates the shower pump which is installed in the stb cockpit locker. There is a filter to catch hairs and stuff before they get into the pump. It needs cleaning regularly.

The head door is a solid teak frame with teak ply panels held in place with a full length bronze piano hinge and a lot of screws. I can put all my weight on the door no problem at all. The knob is bronze of course and even has a lock on it for those who want a little privacy.

The only complaint with the Dana heads compartment is the ridiculous lack of a step to stop shower water draining straight out of the shower and into the cabin. I don’t know what PSC were thinking about. The door closes into a step in the moulding which is all very well but it doesn’t stop the water. In the end I solved this by cutting about 40mm off the bottom of the door and fitting a step into the moulding which is what PSC should have done in the first place. No doubt it was one of those things that just wasn’t worth doing properly, after all, how many people would actually be showering in there? The answer to that is probably not many, but having spent too many depressing times in cold and filthy Marina shower blocks I was determined to have a shower on my boat.

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A step added to the head’s compartment. Before, shower water would simply run out on to the cabin floor! Teak grate comes as standard, as does a pump to empty the shower tray.

That about sums up the interior although I haven’t mentioned the stainless steel pole right in the middle of the table. It is a bit odd when you stop and think about it. How many other people have a metal pole in their living room? I understand the need for it, after all it supports the mast but it is odd. However PSC have used it well as it makes a good thing to grab at sea and it also supports the table by the use of a stainless pin which slots into a hole in the post. The table is big enough to seat four and is strong enough to stand on, I know because I do it all the time. It slides under the bed when you don’t want it in sight and is a very clever solution to the age old table issue on small boats. Under the table are two large sliding drawers and a third locker where the speed transducer is fitted.

The one thing the Dana doesn’t have below is a chart table but I applaud this. Fitting a chart table to such a small boat would have upset the otherwise excellent use of space. Halberg Rassy’s new 35 footer has no chart table and I’m sure that in the future very few, if any, small boats will have dedicated chart tables. After all, with electronic charts and plotters becoming the norm it’s a logical step. If I need to consult or work on a chart I can use the floor or the bed.

 

On deck

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The Dana has a very nice deck. There is a moulded in non slip pattern to the fibre glass which makes much more sense to me than a teak deck does. The side decks are easily wide enough to walk along and getting to the decks from the cockpit is easy to do. The foredeck is spacious enough for sail handling and the front of the cabin makes an excellent back rest for two. It’s simple things like this that make the Dana so excellent. Many modern boats have sleek cabins that cannot be sat against which is a shame as it’s a great place to sit on a sunny windless day when you’re motoring. The autopilot steers the boat and you’re further from the noise of the engine.

There are full length teak handrails on the cabin top so there’s no shortage of places to grab when going forward. There is an excellent light on the mast that illuminates the foredeck perfectly at night.

The stanchions are all 26” high and this adds to the feeling of security. You won’t fall off the Dana easily. The bowsprit allows great anchor options but also makes a great platform for watching dolphins or just contemplating the universe as you sail along.

The cockpit is a great place to be. Many boat designers reduce the size of the cockpit to make a greater space below but Crealock avoided this mistake and the cockpit is long enough to lie down in. The combings are curved and comfy to lean back on. The seats are well spaced so that you have somewhere to wedge your feet when the boat is heeled over.

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Crew ‘On watch’. The cockpit is over 6 feet long. Cockpit cushions have since been fitted. ‘Dave’ the Navico autopilot in charge.

There are three lockers in the cockpit. At the stern there is a gas locker which vents over the stern. It is very low and when sailing water comes in through the drain. In the US gas bottles are generally aluminium so a bit of salt water on them is no problem, however in Europe we have steel bottles and they tend to rust up quickly. Mind you, it’s a small price to pay for the safety that a completely separate locker for the gas gives you.

On the Starboard side, the cockpit locker houses the batteries, holding tank, seacocks for the toilet, diverter valve, pump out for the holding tank, bilge pump and the shower drain pump. It’s a busy locker but there is still a lot of space for things like buckets, hoses etc.

The cockpit locker on the port side is virtually empty and can only be described as voluminous. In ours we have: Two folding bikes, 4 bags of woodworking tools, a small work bench, mooring lines, sheets etc, 6 large fenders and even the MPS! Of course if you want a chisel or a tape measure…

One annoying thing that PSC do for want of a simpler solution is to fit the steering compass on the starboard aft end of the cabin which sadly spoils an otherwise excellent place to sit. They normally put instruments on the other side thus spoiling another good place to sit. All the Dana’s I have seen are like this so unless you buy a new one, you’ll just have to live with it.

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The Dana has her diesel fuel filler in the cockpit by the companionway. It’s a logical place to put it because there is only a short pipe run to the tank. They also fit the tank breather in the same place and this good in the sense that if you do overfill the tank and diesel comes out of the breather it can be soaked up rather than going over the side but when the tank is full and the weather rough you can smell diesel from the breather. When you’re not feeling well this can unhelpful.

One of the disadvantages of a small boat is where to put a dinghy but the Dana is lucky in this sense because it has two novel dinghies designed especially for it. For most people an inflatable boat is the best compromise. They can be deflated and either put away in a locker or lashed on the foredeck. If you want a hard, albeit small dinghy there is the Deckster which stows on the cabin and around the mast thanks to a special removable bow section. If that’s not elegant enough a solution take a look at the Stasha which is a very light nesting dinghy that fits perfectly on the Dana’s foredeck.

 

Some things the Dana doesn’t do

There’s no place to stow anything over six feet long down below. Because the cabin is open plan, it’s all used as a living space and there is no where to even put a boat hook, unless you don’t mind putting it on the bed. On the Pacific Seacraft Flicka, there is a deep quarter berth that is excellent for things like that but the Dana lacks this feature. It’s just one of the prices that must be paid for that large open plan interior.

Actually that’s about the only fault I can think of. Anything else that it doesn’t do is simply the product of being a small boat. After all the Dana is just 24 feet on deck and that is often forgotten. Maybe it’s best to think of the Dana as a 30 foot boat which can go on a trailer or find a cheap place in any marina at any time of the year.

The seacock for the head sink must be closed when sailing on a port tack or the sink can fill with water.

 

Some known issues

The Dana was designed in 1984 and the then owners of PSC did an absolutely brilliant job on the Dana. It says much for their foresight and quality of work that the same moulds they made 25 years ago are still in use today.

The first Danas cost about $100,000 at the time but later on, a cheaper way of building the hulls was found ( I never did discover what this was – I know the layup and types of cloth were changed and the Dana also lost a bit of weight). The Mark 2 Danas were about $70,000 which although still expensive for a 24 foot boat were more attainable and about 350 have been made over the last 25 years.

PSC went bust shortly after I bought Doolittle and the moulds were bought by Seacraft who now offer the Dana (albeit finished slightly differently ) for about $150,000. It’s entirely possible that PSC were selling Danas at a loss as they made such excellent ambassadors for the company. I can’t see how they managed to make one for $70k. The then CEO Don Kohlmann joked that PSC only made $17 on each Dana sold. Perhaps he wasn’t joking. He also told me that a Dana takes about 2500 man hours to assemble. I can well believe it.

It’s hard for me to know what was going on at PSC when I ordered my boat back in 2005 but from what I have gleaned all was not well there. The original owners had sold PSC to a Singapore company that ran the company for many years. Then about when I ordered Doolittle it was bought by a guy who sold Porsche and Audi in Beverly Hills. Perhaps he thought PSC was a cash cow and he’d make a packet but I think he soon tired of the idea and lost interest.

Judging by the many mistakes and shoddy work done on my boat I think there was more going on that I can ever know. All I know is that I did get my boat and only a week late. When I saw what soon happened to PSC and what a Dana costs now, I consider myself very lucky to have bought my boat when I did.

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Mexicans build my boat, deck visible in background.

In fairness to PSC they did their best to make my boat just how I wanted it but they rushed the build although I’d given them a year to make it. The bloke who put the woodwork in the boat must have been half blind or incompetent. Or both. My boat was the last he built. He retired soon after. Not a moment too soon I thought. Even allowing for the fact that I was buying a production boat I was shocked at some of the bloody awful work he did. Thankfully it’s only me that can see these details, they wouldn’t matter or even be noticed by most people. I have since corrected many of his mistakes. All the woodwork that was made in the shop and later fitted was beautifully made.

Despite these cosmetic problems we still launched the boat and after just one week set off home across the Atlantic. Some problems have come to light since but because PSC no longer exist (at least as they were – they are now on the east coast) I have no come back.

Perhaps the most serious of the problems is a cracked rudder gudgeon. In fact it’s not as serious as you might think since the rudder is engineered to be strong enough without it but it’s still a disappointment. The crack is still there but has got no bigger and there is no play in the rudder so for the time being I’m keeping an eye on it. There were other owners who had similar problems. Perhaps a batch of bad castings?

The most annoying problem that I had was the bent mast. All masts for PSC until recently were made by LeFiell and perhaps they picked up on the strange ‘going down the toilet’ vibe that PSC had at the time and were less conscientious than they had been in the past. What was certain though is that my mast had an S bend in it that meant that the rigging could not be set up anything like correctly because as soon as it compressed, the S bend was exaggerated.

I spoke with LeFiell who were quick to blame me for the damage which is ridiculous. Later on, with a mate, we tried to straighten the mast using brute force and we were both amazed at how much force was needed and how far we had to bend the mast to get it to change shape. I would like to know how I managed to put similar forces on the mast by simply sailing!

It’s a real shame as the LeFiell mast is wonderful in so many ways. It’s solid, everything is welded to it and then it’s beautifully painted in white gloss. The mast is heavy though and I believe the Dana would sail even better and roll even less if it had a lighter mast. But this is a cruising boat and a cruising boat needs a strong and simple rig. The LeFiell mast is this.

What I did get eventually is a spoken admission from the boss at LeFiell who told me that they buy in the profiles and then modify them to suit and they often had profiles that were twisted by up to 5%. I was amazed that they still used them. This same company make parts for Boeing. I just hope they take more care making those parts than they do making masts! Frankly I was disgusted that LeFiell wouldn’t accept they had sent a shit product out the door. Perhaps the fact that by this time I was on the other side of the Atlantic had something to do with it. I was very disappointed I must say, hardly the level of customer care and satisfaction that is normal for most American companies.

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Just one of the many details wrong with the mast on Doolittle. Note how the head has not been welded on straight.

So if you are buying a Dana, I would look very carefully up the mast track and make sure that it is straight. I would also check that the spreaders are not twisted. I have not been able to study many other LeFiell masts but the ones I have seen are perfectly straight so I’m particularly annoyed that mine is bent and they couldn’t care less.

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View of the twisted spreaders from the forehatch.

Other Dana issues include problems with the mast step collapsing. This is due to water getting in to the step and rotting out the plywood, then the fibreglass cracks. The solution is to remove the mast and the tabernackle and replace the wood and re-glass the area. For a specialist it’s a straightforward job with easy access.

Often owners have reported leaks by the scuppers on the side decks. The mark one Danas have one scupper, later versions two. They are finished with bronze castings. The remedy is to remove these, dig out all the old sealant and then replace it. Again, a straightforward task with good access.

Fuel tanks were made of aluminium until recently and after 20 years of sitting in bilge water many of them corrode and start to leak. Fortunately, thanks to the good basic principals of PSC the tank is easily removed for replacement.

Some Danas had delaminating bowsprit problems. PSCs solution was to leave a bigger glue gap working on the assumption that they didn’t use enough glue. That’s not the problem however. It seems more likely to me that three laminates just isn’t enough. It would have been better had they used 5. Wood is an amazing material but it absorbs moisture and changes shape slightly all the time. Depending on how the wood was cut and the direction of the grain will have a huge effect on how much and in what direction it moves. The wood can move so much that the glue line can simply break. By using more laminates you introduce more glued area and the chances of the sprit delaminating are reduced. I also noticed during my tour of the factory that no additives were put into the epoxy which leaves it hard and brittle. One reason for adding fibres is to give the glue more flexibility.

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Here is a 2003 Dana with chromed bronze fittings and varnish. Shows the way the substantial bowsprit platform is fitted on top of the bowsprit. Ugly, wide and uneven glue joins visible.

Another problem with the bowsprit is the bowsprit platform which is bolted directly on top of it. This is one of those classic ‘It will do because any other way is just too complicated’ decisions by PSC but it does make getting to the bowsprit to varnish it almost impossible. So what happens is that it doesn’t get varnished, water gets in and the bowsprit starts to rot.

On Doolittle, I soon modified the platform to mount on either side of the bowsprit. I did this for many reasons. It makes the boat look better, it reduces weight and windage up forward and it means you can see the bowsprit for maintenance. The capping is now visible whereas before it disappeared under the platform and a nice ‘boaty’ type feature was lost. It also lowered the lifelines forward a little which also improved the boats lines.

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Doolittle’s modified bowsprit platform. Note how the capping ends at the bowsprit. You couldn’t see this before. Better glue lines on this bowsprit and much easier to maintain and inspect.

The staysail track is a bit short which means it’s hard to properly trim the sail on a broad reach. Some owners have had the staysail cut a little higher to rectify this. It’s not a big deal.

Perhaps it seems like the Dana has a lot of problems but these do not apply to all boats only the occasional one. The Dana may be a production boat but it still requires a lot of skill to put one together so it’s not surprising that some boats may be built better than others. As a boat builder of 20 years I can tell you that although she may have some issues, none of them are particularly serious and can be easily remedied. However, they’re nothing to the problems I have seen on many other modern boats. PSC did all the important bits right. Maybe I was just a bit unlucky.

 

Conclusion

I first discovered Pacific Seacraft back in 1994 when I came across ‘Caraway’ a little black Flicka in Cornwall. I fell in love with the boat but when I discovered that PSC also made a bigger version called the Dana, I knew that it was the boat for me. It took 15 years but now I have the boat of my dreams. If I won the lottery I wouldn’t buy a bigger boat. What people fail to realise is how much work it is keeping a boat in shape. It’s hard enough with a 24 foot boat let alone a 40 footer.

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‘Caraway’ the mighty Flicka that started it all. Here she is barrelling down wind with a fat bone in her teeth.

The Dana is so small that I can easily sail it singlehanded. I don’t need crew, I can just up and leave at a moment’s notice. She might be small but she does all I could ever hope for. Bigger boats might be faster but when you’re so happy and comfy at sea, what’s the rush?

So, a brilliant boat despite it’s 24 foot length. Spacious, comfortable, safe, solid, capable, easy to sail, small enough to be trailered or find it’s way into the smallest harbours, creaks or canals. There is no stretch of water on the planet that the Dana couldn’t get to. Yet it’s big enough to offer real ocean crossing ability at speeds that can surprise.

Pacific Seacraft built the Dana well. Any problems they may have are easily sorted or mostly cosmetic in nature. The basic boats are built to last with the best materials. Proof of this can be seen in the Dana’s high second hand values. You could probably buy a second hand one, use it and care for it for five years then sell it on and not lose a penny. There’s even a Yahoo group for the Dana and a lot of experienced sailors on it who know the boat well and are more happy to share their knowledge.

 

To learn a bit more and see the Danas specifications visit Bluewaterboats.org

 

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Leica Digilux 2. Long exposure, early morning. This image is exactly as it came out of the camera.